🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.