Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
